Ursina's Shelf - Zurich for book lovers
Issue 48
Dear readers,
As our time living in Zurich proper is coming to an end, I would like to share a little bit of the love I have for my hometown and its literary spots.
Where to visit
Law Library at the University of Zurich (Rämistrasse 74)
Description: This library, designed by Catalan architect Santiago Calatrava (whom New York readers will know from the world trade center transport hub), is built into the courtyard of the original building from 1909. Its oval galleries topped with a glass dome are simply mesmerizing. It is open to the public, though visitors are asked to remain quiet. (Link).
Bonus tips: Calatrava obtained a PhD at the nearby Technical Institute (ETH), where Albert Einstein and my great-grand-father also studied. Today Calatrava splits his time between Zurich and New York.
The Wine Library at the B2 Boutique Hotel (Brandschenkestrasse 152)
Description: This hotel is tucked away in a quiet street close to the city center behind one of Zurich’s former breweries. The lobby boasts a high-ceiling library with over 30,000 books and tables perfect for working, reading, and a glass of wine, coffee, or snack. (Link) Â
Bonus: The baths in the former Brewery with its outdoor roof pool is worth a visit, especially at dusk on a clear day. (Link).
Where to shop
Never Stop Reading (Spiegelgasse 18) (previously featured in issue 4)
Description: My Description: Tucked away on a quiet street in the old town of Zurich not far from the Kunsthaus art museum, the collection is focused on architecture, photography, art and design, as well as a section dedicated to English language books. The store is surprisingly spacious inside and also unique in its airy, yet retro design. Mostly visited by locals and connoisseurs, it is also quieter than the English language section at the major Zurich bookstores. (Link).Â
Bonus: The tiled floors and walls are a left-over from the butcher shop that previously occupied this space. This can be combined with a visit to the new wing at the Kunsthaus art museum or a visit to the universities and the above-mentioned law library.
Hirslanden Buchhandlung (Freiestrasse 221)
Description: This rather non-descript shop is located a short yet steep walk up Mount Zurich and is run by a wonderful husband-and-wife team. The shop was enthusiastically recommended to me by my godfather for the owners' uncanny ability to find any book you are seeking, no matter how rare. Based on my own experience, I can only confirm this recommendation; I frequently send a short email with my latest wish and within a few days a book in German, English, or French is waiting for me. (Link).
Where to read
Monocle Shop & Café (Dufourstrasse 90)
Description: Our neighborhood café has great coffees, teas, and snacks plus a wide selection of magazines and beautiful coffee table books, of which we have purchased several. I have spent a lot of time here sipping cappuccinos and matcha lattes, while catching up with friends, working, reading, and even writing this newsletter. (Link).
Bonus Tip: Don’t miss a stroll at the nearby lake front or even a swim at the historic Utoquai bath house.Â
Old Botanical Garden (Pelikanstrasse 40)
Description: While I live right by the (current) botanical gardens and frequently stop by there (buy me a beer and I'll tell you about my after-hours escape), the old botanical gardens are a jewel in the bustling town center. While the city's ambitions outgrew this location, it is beautifully maintained and a quiet refuge with benches and lawn chairs perfect for reading. (Link)
Bonus Tip: There are good public bathrooms all across Zurich, including here.
Lindenhof (Lindenhof)
Description: This is my number one favorite spot in Zurich and while you may attempt to read at this look out point, I believe the view across the river will distract you. Even getting there is scenic as you climb narrow alleys in Zurich's Old Town to this park with its many benches, which was the former site of a roman fort. (Link).
Where to refuel
Hiltl (main location at Sihlstrasse 28)
Description: The oldest vegetarian restaurant in Zurich. I recommend either the buffet or the burger. (Link).
Maison Manesse (Hopfenstrasse 2)
Description: For special occasions, this restaurant serves vegan or omnivore multi-course or à la carte meals. It is our favorite restaurant in town. We love the vegetarian tartar, the noix gras, and the non-alcoholic drink pairing. (Link).Â
Bonus tip: There is a well-priced lunch menu on weekdays that’s a steal.
Gelateria di Berna (multipe locations)
Description: This import from Bern has the best ice cream and gelato in Zurich with lots of vegan options. Our favorites include the vegan chocolate, coconut, and ginger raspberry. (Link).
Bonus tip: The location at Zollstrasse 117 is a quick walk away from the train station, so you have no excuses not to include a pit stop in your itinerary.
Currently reading: The Cost of Sexism: How the Economy is Built for Men and Why We Must Reshape It by Linda Scott (previously published in hardback under the title The Double X Economy; buy it here). Â
Thanks for reading and please come visit Zurich; we would love to show you around. Due to our impending move, the newsletter will take a brief hiatus and return in 4 weeks. Don't stop sending your recommendations, they are always welcome. And please forward the newsletter to anyone who might enjoy it.