Ursina's Shelf - The Porto Edit
Issue 99
Dear readers,
The weekend before last, my parents, Dominic, and I visited Porto, and I wanted to share some impressions from this popular destination.
Portugal has become a favorite in recent years, with Porto often serving as a go-to weekend trip for European travelers. It's also home to one of the most famous bookshops in the world: Livraria Lello.
So…is the city (and the shop) worth visiting? Yes! But be prepared: there are a lot of tourists and hype.
Porto, built at the mouth of the Douro River as it flows into the Atlantic, is a delightful maze of impossibly narrow streets winding up and down steep inclines, lined with colorful houses decorated by colorful tiles. The city boasts six bridges (including one designed by Gustave Eiffel!) and an incredible 57 churches.
And the food—especially for fish lovers—is an absolute highlight. While the main sights can be covered in a day or two, the time to visit several of the many delicious restaurants makes it worth adding an extra one. Of course, lovers of wine should not miss a port tasting or stopping by one of the famous port wine cellars.
Livraria Lello (Rua das Carmelitas)
Description: Ranked among the top 12 bookstores in the world by Time Out (link), Livraria Lello dates back to 1869 and is renowned for its architecture—especially the dramatic red central staircase—and for being a supposed inspiration to J.K. Rowling while she lived in Porto. Entry requires a pre-booked time slot (in 30-minute intervals) and a €10 entrance fee, which can be applied toward the purchase of a book.
My take: Pretty, but packed. Go for the experience, not the book browsing.
Yes, the tall wooden shelves, fresh flowers, and sweeping staircase are beautiful. But the shop is so hyped—and so crowded—that it feels more like a photo-op than a place to discover your next great read. Expect to dodge the "do-it-for-the-’gram" crowd.
A fun detail: In a chat with a store manager, my mom learned that Lello curates a selection focused on Nobel Prize winners, shortlisted authors, and special editions of classics. That said, I also spotted titles by Bill Gates, Stephen King, and, naturally, an entire shelf dedicated to Harry Potter.
Nearby fun fact: Just around the corner, don’t miss the quirky pair of churches: Igreja dos Carmelitas Descalços and Igreja do Carmo. At first glance, they appear to be a single structure—but due to a regulation that churches cannot be built directly next to each other, a narrow house just three feet wide was squeezed between them.
Favorite meal: Tascö (Rua do Almada)
Besides the many (delicious!) Pastéis de Nata, my favorite meal was at Tascö. Not only was the food outstanding, but the sleek modern interior is also beautifully decorated with books—adding to its charm.
If you are also heading to Lisbon, be sure to check out the delightful Ler Devagar bookshop at LX Factory. More details in the issue below:
Currently reading: The Assasins’s Blade by Sarah J Maas, as part of my delightful fantasy reading this year (buy here).
Wishing you a lovely weekend! If you happen to visit a bookstore, I’d love to hear about it.
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