Ursina's Shelf - Berlin for book lovers
Issue 49
Dear readers,
Ever since my first trip to Berlin, I keep returning to the city to celebrate weddings and birthdays, to run a marathon, and for work, but my favorite part of this city is to explore its distinct neighborhoods and unique culture. Berlin has a diversity of “Kietz” (or hoods), restaurants, shops, museums, and people unparalleled in Europe. And of course, there is a lot to love for bookish folks, not only due to the many famous artists, who called Berlin home. See below for some spots I wish I could frequent every weekend.
Where to visit
Bebel Platz Book Memorial (Unter den Linden, Mitte)
Description: Located near major sites like the Brandenburger Tor, this square is rather understated and so is the monument to remember the burning of books by the Nazi student union in 1933. Through a cloudy glass tile in the center of the square, visitors will discover a subterranean room with empty shelves in sterile white. While difficult to spot, this is a must see for defenders of books. Berlin and Germany confront their history openly, and this is one of several monuments addressing the rise of Nazism and the atrocities that followed. (Link).
Bonus tip: Even today books are frequently banned, including-in the US-the graphic novel Maus which grapples with the experience of the author's Jewish parents during the Holocaust. Read more about it in issue 39.
Grimm Zentrum at the Humboldt University (Geschwister-Scholl-Straße 3, Mitte)
Description: This architectural marvel was built to celebrate the books it houses, with design elements that mimic the long stacks, contained around the multi-tiered central reading room. Thankfully the library is open to the public. I could get lost here for hours. I enjoyed wandering the stacks and gazing through the various windows into the main reading room, relishing in the pleasing geometry of the architecture. (Link).
Bonus tip: Climb up to the 4th floor (“4. OG”) and circle the building for a good view of the main reading room. This site is also a close walk from Bebel Platz.
Where to shop
Grosser Unfug Comics (Torstrasse 75, Mitte)
Description: This place was a lucky find; we were walking on the far side of the street when it started to drizzle and I happened to spot all the books through the big windows. A very New York-style street (and tramway) crossing later, we found ourselves in this refuge: An airy modern comic book stone with extensive English comics both in their original serial formats and their bound forms, organized by publisher to make them easy to find. We' eventually had to narrow down our selection after picking up more than our suitcases could carry. (Link).
Bonus tip: Head to the delicious vegan bakery KÄYK around the corner for breakfast or a treat. I love the pistachio cruffin. (Link).
Ocelot, not just another bookstore (Brunnenstrasse 181, Mitte)
Description: This stylish modern book shop is a beautiful space with books, greeting cards, and a café counter with drinks and treats (no seating though). Most of the selection is German language, there is a well-curated English section with both fiction and non-fiction picks. I love the design of the shelves and the path it creates around the store. I enjoyed perusing the section of books set in and about Berlin in particular. I also enjoyed the English section, spotting many of my own favorites there. (Link).
Bonus tips: An ocelot is a spotted medium-sized wild cat. Meier's Vietnamese coffee is a great little spot for a delicious caffeine boost (Link).
Pro-QM Thematische Buchhandlung (Almstadtstrasse 48, Mitte)
Description: You won’t find bestsellers and book dub books here. Instead, you will find non-fiction from art to architecture, philosophy to feminism, interior design to geography, and pretty much any intersection in between. This is the kind of place that gently pushes your thinking and might just turn you into an activist along the way. I picked up a book on feminism and urban planning, while enjoying this lightly cluttered space with pink ladders dotting the mostly industrial shelves and tables. (Link).
Bonus tip: All three spots above can be easily combined on one walk.
Hammett Krimibuchhandlung (Friesenstrasse 27, Kreuzberg)
Description: This tiny two-room bookshop s stacked exclusively with crime novels in German and English. The books are carefully organized with recommendations on each shelf and on the small center table. The owner is also happy to chat about his recent favorites. (Link).
Bonus tip: For lunch, step into Good Morning Vietnam in a nearby courtyard for delicious vegan fare. We recommend the duck. (Link).
Another Country (Riemannstrasse 7, Kreuzberg)
Description: By contrast to Hammett, this bookstore is of palatial size and feels like a cross between a well-worn living room and an overbrimming library. Stocked with second-hand books, most customers will buy a book and return it after completion for the original price minus two Euros. (Link).
Bonus tip: This shop is a few blocks from Hammett and, if you are into records, combine this with a visit to one of the many nearby record shops, such as Holy’s Hit Records. (Link).
Where to refuel
Secret Garden (Warschauer Strasse 33, Friedrichshain)
Description: Secret Garden serves delicious vegan sushi beautifully arranged next to a vegan shoe store and upstairs from an impressive vegan supermarket in this lesser traveled corner of Berlin. I would not have come here but for a recommendation and have already returned twice. It is a phenomenal spot for lunch. The “Glückgeselligkeit für Zwei” sharing platter for two is great, as are the homemade lemonades and smoothies. (Link).
Bonus Tip: If you like street art, visit the nearby East Side Gallery with its art on a former section of the Berlin wall. (Link).
Paolo Pinkel (Karl-Marx-Strasse 55, Neukölln)
Description: This trendy spot in Neuköln houses a bar and three separate kitchens: Sicilian, Cypriot, and South Korean. About a third of the dishes are vegan. The staff is hip and this is the kind of place that gets noisy and fun as the evening progresses. No need to head anywhere else, but do make a reservation. (Link).
Frea (Kleine Hamburger Strasse 2, Mitte)
Description: This upscale vegan restaurant serves 3-5 course meals in a fresh and airy space with an open kitchen, where staff seem relaxed evem at the peak busy moments of the night. Frea is perfect for a special occasion. We liked sitting at the counter with a view into the kitchen, making it extra fun to chat with our waitress. We also recommend the non-alcoholic drinks pairing, which was both fascinating and delicious, on both our visits. (Link).
Currently reading: The Great Circle by Maggie Shipstead. (Shop here).
Thank you for reading. For new joiners, also check out the book lover editions for New York, London, and Zurich. I hope you stay cool this weekend and maybe find a good spot in the shade with a book. As always, I’d be curious to hear what you are discovering and reading.